Last Thursday, New York Men’s Day welcomed six designers to Location05 in Hudson Yards to present their FW25 collections. It was like stepping into another era, a New York of the ’70s or ’80s. But much like the city then, designers presented dueling visions in their retro collections: a gritty, counter culture with lots of avant-garde silhouettes versus a more polished, preppy, Harvard club-inspired aesthetic. And the footwear followed suit, from traditional Sperry loafers to literally no shoes at all. These are our top takeaways from the day.
A.Potts
The genderless collection presented by Aaron Potts featured an array of black and gray apparel inspired by black panthers and spotted leopards. From free-flowing, asymmetrical knits to more structured jacket and trouser sets, the looks are intended to unite and celebrate people of all sizes, ages, and gender expressions. Both the hard and soft looks were paired with simple (but significant) black boots from Florsheim.
Hold NYC
HOLD NYC‘s FW25 presentation explored “cool, optimistic nostalgia.” The collection by Holden Akerly features an array of technical silhouettes reimagined in cozy fleece, classic (“sexed up”) hand-knit sweaters, and menswear staples made lounge ready. Footwear ran the gamut from classic loafers paired with white crew socks, colorful sneakers, and technical hikers.
Sivan
Jack Sivan‘s eponymous collection of suiting began as a bespoke line and is now available RTW and launching in several retail locations this fall. The smart tailoring is still noted by bespoke details, and the FW25 presentation, “Hotel Sivan,” was defined by vintage travel. Footwear of choice spanned classic oxfords, heeled boots, and penny loafers with white crew socks.
JOSEPHMcRAE
We’ve been noting the rise in barefoot footwear recently, but designer Joseph McRae took it a step further with his self-named collection. The designer dressed models completely barefoot to present his structured leathers, puffer jackets, and free-flowing knits. The choice of footwear (or lack thereof) contributed to the designer’s overall vision, a study in contrasts: “Organic textures meet structured silhouettes, symbolizing the delicate balance between strength and fluidity. Earthy tones merge with bold accents, illustrating the contrast between grounding and expansion,” reads the show program.
Max Esmail
Max Esmail‘s FW25 collection is named 55 Bond St., a famed space for creatives. The designer was inspired by the studio’s architecture, incorporating leather, marble, and tubular steel. The result fuses comfort with sleek minimalism. Smart footwear choices ranged from cognac and snakeskin boots to classic black loafers.
Peak Lapel
Parsons School of Design students Jack Milkes and Ben Stedman showed their second collection for Peak Lapel, their line of smart, preppy menswear. The designers were inspired by that warm feelings of coming home for the holidays, showing a mix of denim and trousers paired with classic rugbys, vests, and flannels. The oversized silhouettes harken back to 1990s office culture. Penny loafers, derbies, and boat shoes put the finishing touch on the preppy looks.
