Shoes typically take a backseat to the apparel at New York Fashion Week. But this year’s shows featured more than a few runway moments where the footwear was the fashion. (Looking at you Christian Cowan.) From tabi boots to shearling everything to footwear-as-apparel, we’ve rounded up the biggest shoe-moments across the FW25 runways.
Sperry Walks Shearling Mocs Down the Runway
Sperry was back in full-force at this year’s shows. The brand returned as footwear sponsor at New York Men’s Day while also making waves in women’s fashion. Sperry debuted two new styles on the MONSE FW25 rnuway at the Soho Grand Hotel. On theme with the designer’s penthouse suite–inspired looks, models wore the newly reimagined Shearling Slim Boat Shoe and Shearling Lined Authentic Original Boat Shoe. The former is a boat shoe with a fuzzy shearling upper; the latter a moc with a cozy shearling lining.
Merrell Proves It’s Cool to be Crunchy
Models walked the runway for LEBLANCSTUDIOS wearing four Merrell styles: The Encore Gust (above), Encore Bypass, Jungle Moc, and Moab 3. The outdoor-driven styles paired with the brand’s unexpected, mixed-material looks fusing denim, wool, leather, and nylon. Deliberately unfinished details included double hems with reversed, unfinished linings, exposed elastics at jacket cuffs, and raw-edge collars.
Christian Cowan Debuted Shoes As Garments
In a partnership with DSW, Christian Cowan debuted everything from cocktail dresses to evening gowns and lingerie created from the retailer’s classic pump. “What DSW really loves about Christian’s work is there’s an essence of fun and levity to it, whether it’s the details, the materials, or the whole look, you can’t help but smile,” offers Sarah Crockett, Chief Marketing Officer, DSW. “Self-expression is a big part of our brand’s identity. We jumped at the opportunity to play and create with Christian through the fun our shoes bring to fashion.” Starting today and through March 12, the garments will be on display at DSW’s Union Square flagship.
Snow Xue Gao Styles Gola for New York Winter
Snow Xue Gao’s FW25 collection celebrates “New York winter,” inspired by how real New Yorkers embrace the season. The designer’s signature wool plaid and vegan fur coats redefine winter dressing style with colored tights or knee socks and featuring Gola styles, like the Elan sneaker pictured above.
Legwear Is Staging a Comeback
After years of bare-legged styling, New York Fashion Week is ready to embrace legwear. Brightly colored tights were a statement choice off the runway, while on the runway at shows like Aknvas and Adore Me (presented by Runway 7), knee-socks were the ultimate pairing with ladylike Mary Janes.
Quirky Shoes Won New York Fashion Week
Marc Jacobs opened New York Fashion Week with avant-garde shoe pairings including extremely pointed toes and clown-like curved boots. Shearling played a big role, from Coach’s platform bunny slippers to Meruert Tolegen’s shearling mules á la abominable snowman. Sandy Liang also walked some fuzzy flats, each adorned with a single pearl on the toe, as well as sock-like leather tabi boots in bright blue and green hues. Show notes described the looks (marked by confetti, pearls, star motifs, and florals) as “a childhood fantasy realized.”
At Anna Sui, the designer collaborated with John Fluevog to show Mary Jane pumps and knee-high boots with a mixed-material, steampunk-Victorian twist. One of the first shows of the season, Collina Strada debuted two footwear collabs. First, with Factry, sock boots embellished with frilly bows and sparkly mesh uppers. Secondly, Collina Strada x Puma showed the brand’s Mostro sneaker adorned with floral and butterfly uppers. Though the latter was a little more tame, it illustrates a larger movement of statement footwear moving to the mainstream.
